Diaspora Kitchen

Boricua in the Pacific: Adapting Puerto Rican Recipes with Hawaii Ingredients

Puerto Rico and Hawaii are both islands of deep food culture. Here's how to cook authentic boricua on the islands — with swaps that taste right, not just 'close enough'.

7 min read Island-to-island

By Josh Ortiz·August 2026·7 min read

The first rule of the diaspora: the recipe travels, the ingredients improvise. In Hawaii you have an advantage most mainland kitchens don't — real plantains, real coconut, and a produce scene that loves the same starchy, tropical pantry we grew up on. The gaps are smaller than you'd think. Here's the island-to-island playbook.

The Big Swaps

Puerto Rican stapleWhat it doesHawaii swap
Recao (culantro)That unmistakable herbal punch in sofritoCulantro grows here — ask for "sawtooth coriander" at farmers markets or Asian grocers. Missing it? Double the cilantro.
Ají dulceSweet, aromatic pepper for sofritoSweet banana peppers + a whisper of heat (seedless Thai chili works).
Gandules (pigeon peas)The soul of arroz con gandulesBlack-eyed peas or chickpeas — same earthy body, works in the same pot.
Bacalao (salted cod)Saltiness + flake for bacalaitos and stewsFresh local fish (ono/wahoo, moi, or tilapia) — season generously and skip the soak.
Yuca / malangaStarchy roots for sancocho and alcapurriasTaro (kalo) — starchy, mild, perfect. Always cook taro fully; never eat it raw.
Calabaza (West Indian pumpkin)Sweet squash for soups and pastelesKabocha squash — Hawaii's answer, same sweet-flaky texture.
Sour orange (naranja agria)The classic mojo baseLime + a splash of fresh orange juice — bright, acidic, right.
Guava pasteSweet-tart for desserts and with cheeseFresh Hawaiian guava — cook it down into your own paste.
PlantainsThe backbone — tostones, mofongo, amarillosAbundant in Hawaii. No swap needed — this is your home court.
CoconutCoquito, tembleque, riceHawaii has world-class coconut. Use it everywhere.

Three Dishes, Adapted

Sofrito with Hawaii culantro

Same recipe, one trick: if you find fresh sawtooth coriander, treat it exactly like recao — rough-chop a full bunch into the blender with cubanelle (or banana) peppers, onion, garlic, oil, and salt. Batch it, freeze it in cubes. Your arroz con pollo will taste like home.

Bacalaitos, local style

Trade the salted cod for flaky fresh fish. Poach or steam the fish, flake it, and fold it into the same seasoned batter (flour, garlic, achiote for color, herbs). Fry golden at 350°F. The crisp is identical; the ocean is just closer.

Sancocho with taro and kabocha

Build the stew with sofrito, your meats, and broth — then add cubed taro and kabocha where you'd use yuca and calabaza. The roots soak up the broth the same way. Serve with arroz blanco and a squeeze of lime.

Nochebuena in Hawaii

The menu translates beautifully: pernil can be the star anywhere there's an oven; arroz con gandules with black-eyed peas; tembleque and coquito leaning on local coconut; pasteles wrapped in banana leaves (easy to find frozen in Hawaii). The table might look a little more Pacific — but it tastes like the island.

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